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The Laurel Branch February 2021
February 05, 2021
Welcome to our e-newsletter, "The Laurel Branch."
Great Backyard Bird Count
It is time once again for the Great Backyard Bird Count! It is easy to do and citizen science data is very helpful to researchers and our birds. You can find out more about the count and how to help by going HERE.
Free Winter Birding and Great Backyard Bird Count Class
The South Carolina Wildlife Federation is offering a free class via Zoom. It will be a very interesting lesson even if you are not participating in the count.The class is February 11th at 12 p.m. You can sign and learn more by clicking HERE.Pollinator Conservation Webinar
Register today for a FREE Pollinator Conservation Webinar, March 18, 2021 from 4-5:30 PM. This webinar is being presented by EEASC and Champions of the Environment. Formal and informal K-12th grade educators in SC are welcome to attend.
Expert speakers will provide presentations on the following:
Importance of pollinators
Planting for pollinators
Preserving pollinator habitat
Creating Carolina Fence gardens
Establishing Monarch Waystations
Lesson plans and activity guides
Attendees will receive door prizes, educational toolkits, and additional resources. Deadline to register is March 15, 2021.
Visit scdhec.gov/champions to learn more.
DCMGA Plant Sale
The Darlington County Master Gardeners are already gearing up for the next DCMGA Plant Sale, while following the COVID guidelines, of course. This year’s plant sale, like last, will follow COVID precautions to ensure that everyone is safe. Check the Gardens’ Facebook page and the newsletter for more details, which will be coming soon.
Oyster Roast Postponed
In light of the continuation of COVID-19 cases in SC and throughout the nation, and out of concern for our guests, staff, Board, and community, we have decided it best to postpone our annual oyster roast fundraiser. As important as this fundraiser is to the Gardens, public health takes precedence. We are looking forward to having our Oyster Roast Fundraiser in 2022, and trust me that it will be like no other!Swipe for the Gardens
The next time you visit the Gardens, please stop by our credit card reader and give us a swipe. Each swipe is $5 and funds support projects at your public garden, Kalmia Gardens. With the restrictions COVID-19 has placed on our fundraising capabilities your donations are now more important than ever.
Kalmia Gear
Kalmia Gardens gear is here! Super comfy sweatshirts ($30) and great looking hats ($18) with the Kalmia Gardens logo are available. In addition to this gear we have added long sleeve t-shirts ($24) using your descriptions of Kalmia Gardens and those descriptions are in the shape of a heart! This awesome gear is available by emailing kalmia@coker.edu and can be found at the Coker bookstore. Funds from the proceeds of K. Gear help support the Gardens, so look good while helping your public garden. They make a great Valentine's Day gift too!
Chris's Tip
As we enter the final weeks of winter, I hope it's the final weeks of winter, I know some of you are already thinking about spring planting, chomping at the bit to get going. Well, why wait? You could go ahead and start your seeds indoors if you follow these tips…and have a little space for them to grow until after our last frost, which is around April 17th here in beautiful Hartsville, SC. Here are the basics of what you’ll need to get your seeds started:
-Containers- Either purchased pots or flats or containers you've saved, like egg cartons and yogurt cups. Used pots should be cleaned and disinfected by soaking in 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
-Potting mix- Seeds do best in a soilless mix where there are fewer inherent problems than with garden soil.
-Seeds- Your choice.
-Labels/markers - Trust me, you won't remember what's what.
-Plastic Bags or Covers - These will trap warmth and humidity where the seeds need it.
-Water-duh!
-Light Source - If you don't have a bright window, you will need some kind of florescent or high density plant light.
Loosen and dampen the potting mix before you put it into your seed starting containers. It is easier to get a uniform level of moisture if you do it this way. Dampen the mix to the consistency of a rung-out sponge. It should be wet, but not dripping, with no dry lumps. There are many good potting mixes available. Using a soilless potting mix rather than outdoor soil is preferable because potting mixes don't readily compact, don't contain weed seeds, and don't have disease spores and other possible problems. Also, since the seedlings don’t need fertilizer until they have sprouted their first true leaves, you don’t need a mix with fertilizer in it. Use the pre-dampened potting mix to fill your seed starting containers. Don't pack the potting mix into the container. Fill about 2/3 full and tap the container on the table top, to help the potting mix settle. Gently firm the soil with your hand.
Start Planting: Once you have your containers prepared, you can begin planting the seeds. Make sure you read the seed package for special instructions. Some seeds may require a period of pre-chilling or soaking. Small seeds can be sprinkled on top of the potting mix. Larger seeds can be counted out and planted individually. Use at least 3 seeds per container, since not all seeds will germinate and not all that do germinate will survive. You can thin extras later. Re-check your seed packet for information on how much potting mix should go on top of the seeds. Generally, the smaller the seed, the less you need to cover them. There are a few seeds, like lettuce, that require light to germinate and should barely be covered with potting mix. Although the potting mix was pre-dampened, it is still a good idea to sprinkle some additional water on top of the newly planted seed. This insures that the top layer of mix won't dry out and it also helps to firm the potting mix and insure good contact between the seed the mix. Don’t over water!
Your seeds are now ready to be covered loosely with some type of plastic. This will help hold in both heat and moisture. You can place the whole container into a plastic bag or simply lay a sheet of plastic over the container. If you have special seed starting trays with plastic covers, use those. Move your container to a warm, draft-free spot and check it daily. Most seeds germinate best when the temperature is between 65 and 70 degrees F. The top of a refrigerator is an idea spot, or you could consider purchasing heating mats specially made for germinating seed. Heating mats go under the potting containers and heat the soil from below. You will usually need to water more frequently when using heating mats. Caution: Only use heating mats certified for seed starting use. In general, seeds will not need light until they emerge. They will need air circulation under the plastic or you will be encouraging mold.
Remove the plastic as soon as you see a seedling emerging and move the plant into indirect light. Be sure the potting mix stays moist, but not wet. Once your seedlings begin poking through the soil, they will start to straighten up and unfurl. What look like two leaves will appear. These are actually leaf-like structures, called cotyledons , that are part of the seed and serve as food sources until true leaves are formed and the plant is capable of photosynthesis. At this point you should move your seedlings under a light source. Your seedlings will need between 12-18 hours of light each day. This may seem extreme, but artificial light and even the low rays of the winter sun are not as intense as full summer sun. The best way to insure regular long doses of light is to attach your florescent or high intensity plant lights to an automatic timer. As the seedling grows, the cotyledons will wither and what are called the first "true" leaves will form. This is when your seedling begins actively photosynthesizing. Since it is growing in a soilless mix, you will need to give it some supplemental feeding at this point. Use a balanced fertilizer or one high in nitrogen and potassium, to encourage good roots and healthy growth. Seedlings can remain in their original containers until you are ready to plant them in their permanent spots. However, it is common to move the seedlings into a larger pot once several sets of leaves have formed and the seedling is a couple of inches tall. This is called "potting up" and it allows the roots more room to develop. Three to four inch pots are good sizes to pot up to, allowing plenty of room for root growth. If more than one seedling is growing in the same pot, either separate the seedlings into individual pots or cut off all but the strongest seedling. Don't try to pull out the extra seedlings, since this might hurt the roots of the seedling you are keeping. By the time the temperature warms outside, you should have stocky, healthy young plants.
Before moving them out into the garden, take a week or two to gradually introduce them to their new growing conditions. This is called hardening off. It gives the plants a chance to acclimate to sunlight, drying winds and climate changes. Move the plants to a shady spot for increasing amounts of time, several days in a row. Bring them in or cover them if the temperature looks like it will dip. Gradually increase the amount of time they spend outside and the amount of sunlight they receive until you see that they are growing strong and appear ready to go out on their own. Water your seedlings well before and after transplanting and try not to transplant during the hottest, sunniest part of the day.Dan’s Interesting Plant
This interesting plant belongs to the family of the Thymelaeaceae, which loosely translates to the sparrows-tongue-plant because, figuratively speaking, the narrow flower tube can only be penetrated by the small tongue of a sparrow. This plant is native to China, Japan and Korea. It is an evergreen shrub, grown for its very fragrant, fleshy, pale-pink, tubular flowers, each with 4 spreading lobes, and for its glossy foliage. This evergreen shrub is prized for its sweetly fragrant flowers which bloom in winter and early spring. In Korea, the plant is also poetically called "churihyang" - a thousand mile scent - referring to the fragrance of the flowers. The foliage is attractively variegated with a yellow margin. It’s a great foundation plant for the dappled shade garden, and it can be beautifully featured against a wall or near a patio or deck where its fragrance can be appreciated. It grows best in fertile, slightly acid, peaty, well-drained soils. It grows in partial shade, and is hardy to −10 °C (14 °F). Have you guessed this interesting plant?
It’s Variegated Winter Daphne (Daphne odora).Beautiful Plants of Kalmia Gardens
Alder, Tag (Alnus serrulata)
Apricot, Flowering (Prunus mume)
Camellia (Camellia japonica)
Daffodill (Narcissus species)
Eastern Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis)
Holly, American (Ilex opaca)
Mahonia, Leatherleaf (Mahonia bealei)
Maple, Coral Bark (Acer sp.)
Nandina (Nandina domestica)
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua)
Tea (Camellia sinensis)
Yaupon (Ilex vomitoria)
Contact:Mary Ridgewaymridgeway@coker.edu, (843) 383-8145
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